Friday, July 25, 2014

Thur-Fri July 24-25th - Baddeck

Thur-Fri July 24-25th - Baddeck
Thursday July 24th- Glenora, Red shoe
There it is!
Its a rainy day. As forecasted and we are glad we planned the Cabot trail the last two days. Had a lazy morning and in the afternoon went off to Glenora Distillery, Canada’s first single malt distillery. It is located on the Ceilidh Trail (South East of the Cape).
Mash Tun produces Wort.. Malting
We did the tour and tasting (naturally!) and treated ourselves to a nice bottle of 14 year for special occasions.
Pot Stills - Almost ready!!
On to the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou, which is the home of, and operated by the Rankin family. (Non Canadians get your Wikipedia out!) Unfortunately, David Rankin isn’t on until next week. Not a bad Pub meal, with good Propeller Bitter ale. The chicken wings were soft so they came home to be BBQ’d tomorrow. On to Inverness to see the evening ceilidh, but that was a bit of a disappointment as it was just music in the park. However the drive home through the countryside was really interesting with old farmhouses, together with mountain and coastal views.
CHEERS!!
Time to leave
The Red Shoe, Mabou, Cape Breton NS

Inside the Red Shoe.. the Rankins Pub
 Friday July 25th
More rain this morning but we had planned for it and today was an admin day, letters mail, blog, emails etc. We also popped in to town to mail some stuff and have a look round.. it is a great little town and a perfect place to base yourself for a visit to Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail. If there is anything I would suggest that we did not do here, it would be to spend more time and go on more hikes. It is a hikers haven and in some of the most beautiful scenery you can get... but be careful about the weather... it can be pretty rainy and cloudy. Yes the Red Shoe Wings turned out great and we even cleaned the BBQ. Started to prepare for tomorrow’s moving out!

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail


 

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail
Our Trusty Map
One of the major reasons we ventured out here was to drive around the Cabot Trail, so we decided that it would be best to take at least 2 days to do it and t stay in a B and B half way round in a village called Pleasant Bay. So we packed a few overnight necessities and left the 'condo' safely parked at the campground.
Tuesday July 22nd
Endless beautiful coastline
Beach near Ingonish
Today we began our journey along the Cabot Trail. We started out through Baddeck  and after getting the “lo down: from the tourist office set off maps and brochures in hand. We traveled up the east coast to Ingonish. We checked out the beach at Ingonish. Then we strayed off the trail according to guide instructions and went on the Middlehead Trail hike. It was a short  4km loop. The trail is all up and down over tree roots and rocks, and follows a long, narrow peninsula separating two ocean bays, ending on headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island.  On just a little further to view a large rocky outcrop where gulls were nesting, squawking and trying to teach their young how to fly. It was fascinating.
Beautiful beaches at Ingonish












Back on the Cabot a little further north we went off on to a dirt sideroad of some 6km to visit Mary Ann Falls. A local swimming hole formed by the pooling of some “rapids” rather than “falls” still very picturesque.
Ingonish Island in Background
Time for a snack at the top
Starting our hike on Middlehead Trail
View on the way up Middlehead
Middlehead point with Smokey Mtn In background
 Feeling good!!
Baby Seagull.. in practice mode
More flyers in training
I'm flappin' I'm flappin', but no flyin yet!!
The weary parent "yeah.. keep flappin' son"
Mary Ann Falls... beautiful spot for a swim1
NEIL'S HARBOUR
At this point we decided we better get a move on and get around to Pleasant Bay where we had booked at the Highland Breeze B and B. Got there to find a deserted house, open with our name on a sheet in the window. Room was downstairs and actually a bit better than we had expected. Mind you the pump toilet system could have used a silencer!
Beer before dinner - Rusty Anchor Restaurant
Dinner... get cracking!!! FRESH!!
We went into “town” and found the Rusty Anchor restaurant that we had seen advertised. Fabulous. 
Fishermans platter.. veggies and pots to come!
We had the Fishermans platter and a Lobster Crab dinner.
THE BEST ... Lobster and crab... !!! Rusty Anchor
Great food. On the way back the sun was setting so we detoured to the beach. We joined a family who had started a beach fire and shared the sunset with them Peter, Janet Zach and Alec welcomed us and we shared some stories of cycling, traveling and we learned a little French. Coincidentally they were staying at the other guest house run by Highland Breeze. It was a gorgeous sunset with great company.
Young Zach.. and smors!!



Sunset at Pleasant Bay Beach
Sun starting to fade.. fire lit

INCREDIBLE!!!! ---- Untouched!!
Wednesday July 23rd
Poolside ... Highland Breeze B and B - Ho hum!!
Leisurely start to the day with a whole group breakfast. Today we are heading southbound as the The Cabot trail circles around on the east side climbing up Mackenzie mountain with spectacular coastal views.
Rusty Anchor from MacKenzie Mtn.
As we headed south Derek (the eagle eyed one!) spotted a moose grazing at the side of the road... he sure was a huge one. We were both pretty happy about seeing one.
MOOSE!!! .... Check!!!
Then we paused at the The Skyline Trail for another 9km hike. This one is more level going out to a point that is windy and exposed. the last few hundred yards is along a stepped boardwalk to viewing platforms. Photogenic or what? But the photos really don't do it justice... just phenomenal.
Yikes -- feed him quick!!!

Keep on going - almost there!
Loved the Skyline trail
Photos do not do this justice-top of skyline trail
A bit nervous at the top
Wild roses in meadow
Skyline trail on Left ridge, Road on right
We continued on to Cheticamp. Just as we were descending in to the town, we stopped at a viewpoint, and a ranger was there with some whale bones. She gave us a quick run down on the whale species to be found here (most of them it seems!!)
In Cheticamp we stopped at a small info centre and cultural museum. A history lesson indeed. Who knew about La Grande Derangement?? In 1755 the British at war in the new world against the French determined to expel over 10,000 Acadians to other parts of the Americas and back to France. Those that escaped or later returned after 1780 settled in Quebec and Nova Scotia to re-establish their culture, 14 families settled in Cheticamp and most of the residents there today can trace their roots back to these families. Cheticamp is now the Acadian centre of the Maritimes.
Nova Scotia (New Scotland).. Wonder why??
Blue Whale Vertebra
We thought we would get good seafood at the Seafood stop...looking forward to more lobster. But disaster, Miracle whip in the potato salad, poor service and 20 minutes to get a drink!!! no staff tips here. Off to dip our feet in the bay at La Point on Cheticamp island and then a delicious ice cream en route back to the condo.
Another wonder day with fine weather in cape Breton.



Some Whales have 'baleen', others real teeth
La Point beach ... Cheticamp!

Cape Breton sure is beautiful

Monday, July 21, 2014

July 21 - Halifax to Cape Breton

July 21 - Halifax to Cape Breton
Over the causeway to Cape Breton
YEY... almost there!!
Parked in Bras D'ors Campground
We left Halifax excited to start our new adventure in Cape Breton and the Cabot trail. Derek was still felling a little rough with sore throat and sniffles but we shared the driving and Janice took over for the last big stretch. We arrived late afternoon and the Bras D'or Lakes Campground and settled in to our site. The campground is on the shore of Bras D'or lake (a mix of fresh and salt water) and after we settled we walked down to the lake and watched some people head off in Kayaks and then chatted to a French Canadian couple who were having some wine and cheese on the beach. 
This appears to be a great campground, but one of the most expensive we have stayed in. We BBQ'd some chicken and organized a little in preparation for our trip tomorrow around the Cabot trail.. 
Down by the lake






Happy and excited about Cabot Trail
Jelly Fish.. not sure if they are dangerous.. no swimming