Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail


 

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail
Our Trusty Map
One of the major reasons we ventured out here was to drive around the Cabot Trail, so we decided that it would be best to take at least 2 days to do it and t stay in a B and B half way round in a village called Pleasant Bay. So we packed a few overnight necessities and left the 'condo' safely parked at the campground.
Tuesday July 22nd
Endless beautiful coastline
Beach near Ingonish
Today we began our journey along the Cabot Trail. We started out through Baddeck  and after getting the “lo down: from the tourist office set off maps and brochures in hand. We traveled up the east coast to Ingonish. We checked out the beach at Ingonish. Then we strayed off the trail according to guide instructions and went on the Middlehead Trail hike. It was a short  4km loop. The trail is all up and down over tree roots and rocks, and follows a long, narrow peninsula separating two ocean bays, ending on headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island.  On just a little further to view a large rocky outcrop where gulls were nesting, squawking and trying to teach their young how to fly. It was fascinating.
Beautiful beaches at Ingonish












Back on the Cabot a little further north we went off on to a dirt sideroad of some 6km to visit Mary Ann Falls. A local swimming hole formed by the pooling of some “rapids” rather than “falls” still very picturesque.
Ingonish Island in Background
Time for a snack at the top
Starting our hike on Middlehead Trail
View on the way up Middlehead
Middlehead point with Smokey Mtn In background
 Feeling good!!
Baby Seagull.. in practice mode
More flyers in training
I'm flappin' I'm flappin', but no flyin yet!!
The weary parent "yeah.. keep flappin' son"
Mary Ann Falls... beautiful spot for a swim1
NEIL'S HARBOUR
At this point we decided we better get a move on and get around to Pleasant Bay where we had booked at the Highland Breeze B and B. Got there to find a deserted house, open with our name on a sheet in the window. Room was downstairs and actually a bit better than we had expected. Mind you the pump toilet system could have used a silencer!
Beer before dinner - Rusty Anchor Restaurant
Dinner... get cracking!!! FRESH!!
We went into “town” and found the Rusty Anchor restaurant that we had seen advertised. Fabulous. 
Fishermans platter.. veggies and pots to come!
We had the Fishermans platter and a Lobster Crab dinner.
THE BEST ... Lobster and crab... !!! Rusty Anchor
Great food. On the way back the sun was setting so we detoured to the beach. We joined a family who had started a beach fire and shared the sunset with them Peter, Janet Zach and Alec welcomed us and we shared some stories of cycling, traveling and we learned a little French. Coincidentally they were staying at the other guest house run by Highland Breeze. It was a gorgeous sunset with great company.
Young Zach.. and smors!!



Sunset at Pleasant Bay Beach
Sun starting to fade.. fire lit

INCREDIBLE!!!! ---- Untouched!!
Wednesday July 23rd
Poolside ... Highland Breeze B and B - Ho hum!!
Leisurely start to the day with a whole group breakfast. Today we are heading southbound as the The Cabot trail circles around on the east side climbing up Mackenzie mountain with spectacular coastal views.
Rusty Anchor from MacKenzie Mtn.
As we headed south Derek (the eagle eyed one!) spotted a moose grazing at the side of the road... he sure was a huge one. We were both pretty happy about seeing one.
MOOSE!!! .... Check!!!
Then we paused at the The Skyline Trail for another 9km hike. This one is more level going out to a point that is windy and exposed. the last few hundred yards is along a stepped boardwalk to viewing platforms. Photogenic or what? But the photos really don't do it justice... just phenomenal.
Yikes -- feed him quick!!!

Keep on going - almost there!
Loved the Skyline trail
Photos do not do this justice-top of skyline trail
A bit nervous at the top
Wild roses in meadow
Skyline trail on Left ridge, Road on right
We continued on to Cheticamp. Just as we were descending in to the town, we stopped at a viewpoint, and a ranger was there with some whale bones. She gave us a quick run down on the whale species to be found here (most of them it seems!!)
In Cheticamp we stopped at a small info centre and cultural museum. A history lesson indeed. Who knew about La Grande Derangement?? In 1755 the British at war in the new world against the French determined to expel over 10,000 Acadians to other parts of the Americas and back to France. Those that escaped or later returned after 1780 settled in Quebec and Nova Scotia to re-establish their culture, 14 families settled in Cheticamp and most of the residents there today can trace their roots back to these families. Cheticamp is now the Acadian centre of the Maritimes.
Nova Scotia (New Scotland).. Wonder why??
Blue Whale Vertebra
We thought we would get good seafood at the Seafood stop...looking forward to more lobster. But disaster, Miracle whip in the potato salad, poor service and 20 minutes to get a drink!!! no staff tips here. Off to dip our feet in the bay at La Point on Cheticamp island and then a delicious ice cream en route back to the condo.
Another wonder day with fine weather in cape Breton.



Some Whales have 'baleen', others real teeth
La Point beach ... Cheticamp!

Cape Breton sure is beautiful

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