Sat Jul 26 - Baddeck to Pictou

Jul 26 - Baddeck to Pictou

Ad to get passengers to sail on The Hector

It was with a little sadness that we left Baddeck. Cape Breton is a wonderful place and we felt that 4-5 days is just not enough to thoroughly explore this area. But we have a plan this time, and sites are pre-booked so off we went. Of course once we are on the road, we again feel that rush of 'new adventure'. It happens every time we head to new destinations. We are heading toward PEI, but first we are stopping overnight in Pictou, NS. We arrived early afternoon and were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the campground welcome (a whole bunch of people sitting outside the camp office shooting the breeze) looked like a welcoming party! After setting up and meeting our neighbours, we headed out to check out the ferry area. It is a weird setup. Trying to be brief... it is free going from NS to PEI... any size vehicle and any number of passengers (you pay only from PEI to NS). Now we had tried to book but you can't book one way... only return. We wanted to ensure we got on the ferry so we booked a berth leaving PEI tonight at 6:30 (which we wouldn't use) and then 'returning' tomorrow morning at 9:30am. After discussing the situation briefly with the lady in the canteen and the chappy outside who seems to usher the trucks/cars onto the ferry, the feeling was that, with only one hour left to our bogus trip 'from' PEI,  we should cancel and take our chances in the morning... So we did!! refunded $120 ... here's hoping we can get on the ferry tomorrow! 

On board the replica of the Hector

Route showing being blown back off course

We drove then into Pictou... what a great little town, and the final destination of the 'Hector' back in 1773 .. one of the first ships carrying (approx 200) Scottish people to 'Nova Scotia'. The migration of the Scots was a result of many factors, mostly to do with the battles with the English, and Scottish failure to maintain their independence after the devastating loss at Culloden in 1746. The history of this migration, and the factors influencing it, are well told at the Hector Heritage Quay in Pictou in the Museum, which also has a replica of the Hector berthed and available for viewing. We watched a movie that followed the building of the replica in the 90's. It was really interesting and quite emotional when it was finally launched. We were fascinated by the history and loved our very short stay in this lovely town.

The Hector (replica) in the harbour

Thur-Fri July 24-25th - Baddeck

Thur-Fri July 24-25th - Baddeck

Thursday July 24th- Glenora, Red shoe

There it is!

Its a rainy day. As forecasted and we are glad we planned the Cabot trail the last two days. Had a lazy morning and in the afternoon went off to Glenora Distillery, Canada’s first single malt distillery. It is located on the Ceilidh Trail (South East of the Cape).

Mash Tun produces Wort.. Malting

We did the tour and tasting (naturally!) and treated ourselves to a nice bottle of 14 year for special occasions.

Pot Stills - Almost ready!!

On to the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou, which is the home of, and operated by the Rankin family. (Non Canadians get your Wikipedia out!) Unfortunately, David Rankin isn’t on until next week. Not a bad Pub meal, with good Propeller Bitter ale. The chicken wings were soft so they came home to be BBQ’d tomorrow. On to Inverness to see the evening ceilidh, but that was a bit of a disappointment as it was just music in the park. However the drive home through the countryside was really interesting with old farmhouses, together with mountain and coastal views.

CHEERS!!

Time to leave

The Red Shoe, Mabou, Cape Breton NS

Inside the Red Shoe.. the Rankins Pub

 Friday July 25th

More rain this morning but we had planned for it and today was an admin day, letters mail, blog, emails etc. We also popped in to town to mail some stuff and have a look round.. it is a great little town and a perfect place to base yourself for a visit to Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail. If there is anything I would suggest that we did not do here, it would be to spend more time and go on more hikes. It is a hikers haven and in some of the most beautiful scenery you can get... but be careful about the weather... it can be pretty rainy and cloudy. Yes the Red Shoe Wings turned out great and we even cleaned the BBQ. Started to prepare for tomorrow’s moving out!

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail

 

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail

Our Trusty Map

One of the major reasons we ventured out here was to drive around the Cabot Trail, so we decided that it would be best to take at least 2 days to do it and t stay in a B and B half way round in a village called Pleasant Bay. So we packed a few overnight necessities and left the 'condo' safely parked at the campground.

Tuesday July 22nd

Endless beautiful coastline

Beach near Ingonish

Today we began our journey along the Cabot Trail. We started out through Baddeck  and after getting the “lo down: from the tourist office set off maps and brochures in hand. We traveled up the east coast to Ingonish. We checked out the beach at Ingonish. Then we strayed off the trail according to guide instructions and went on the Middlehead Trail hike. It was a short  4km loop. The trail is all up and down over tree roots and rocks, and follows a long, narrow peninsula separating two ocean bays, ending on headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island.  On just a little further to view a large rocky outcrop where gulls were nesting, squawking and trying to teach their young how to fly. It was fascinating.

Beautiful beaches at Ingonish

Back on the Cabot a little further north we went off on to a dirt sideroad of some 6km to visit Mary Ann Falls. A local swimming hole formed by the pooling of some “rapids” rather than “falls” still very picturesque.

Ingonish Island in Background

Time for a snack at the top

Starting our hike on Middlehead Trail

View on the way up Middlehead

Middlehead point with Smokey Mtn In background

 Feeling good!!

Baby Seagull.. in practice mode

More flyers in training

I'm flappin' I'm flappin', but no flyin yet!!

The weary parent "yeah.. keep flappin' son"

Mary Ann Falls... beautiful spot for a swim1

NEIL'S HARBOUR

At this point we decided we better get a move on and get around to Pleasant Bay where we had booked at the Highland Breeze B and B. Got there to find a deserted house, open with our name on a sheet in the window. Room was downstairs and actually a bit better than we had expected. Mind you the pump toilet system could have used a silencer!

Beer before dinner - Rusty Anchor Restaurant

Dinner... get cracking!!! FRESH!!

We went into “town” and found the Rusty Anchor restaurant that we had seen advertised. Fabulous. 

Fishermans platter.. veggies and pots to come!

We had the Fishermans platter and a Lobster Crab dinner.

THE BEST ... Lobster and crab... !!! Rusty Anchor

Great food. On the way back the sun was setting so we detoured to the beach. We joined a family who had started a beach fire and shared the sunset with them Peter, Janet Zach and Alec welcomed us and we shared some stories of cycling, traveling and we learned a little French. Coincidentally they were staying at the other guest house run by Highland Breeze. It was a gorgeous sunset with great company.

Young Zach.. and smors!!

Sunset at Pleasant Bay Beach

Sun starting to fade.. fire lit

INCREDIBLE!!!! ---- Untouched!!

Wednesday July 23rd

Poolside ... Highland Breeze B and B - Ho hum!!

Leisurely start to the day with a whole group breakfast. Today we are heading southbound as the The Cabot trail circles around on the east side climbing up Mackenzie mountain with spectacular coastal views.

Rusty Anchor from MacKenzie Mtn.

As we headed south Derek (the eagle eyed one!) spotted a moose grazing at the side of the road... he sure was a huge one. We were both pretty happy about seeing one.

MOOSE!!! .... Check!!!

Then we paused at the The Skyline Trail for another 9km hike. This one is more level going out to a point that is windy and exposed. the last few hundred yards is along a stepped boardwalk to viewing platforms. Photogenic or what? But the photos really don't do it justice... just phenomenal.

Yikes -- feed him quick!!!

Keep on going - almost there!

Loved the Skyline trail

Photos do not do this justice-top of skyline trail

A bit nervous at the top

Wild roses in meadow

Skyline trail on Left ridge, Road on right

We continued on to Cheticamp. Just as we were descending in to the town, we stopped at a viewpoint, and a ranger was there with some whale bones. She gave us a quick run down on the whale species to be found here (most of them it seems!!)

In Cheticamp we stopped at a small info centre and cultural museum. A history lesson indeed. Who knew about La Grande Derangement?? In 1755 the British at war in the new world against the French determined to expel over 10,000 Acadians to other parts of the Americas and back to France. Those that escaped or later returned after 1780 settled in Quebec and Nova Scotia to re-establish their culture, 14 families settled in Cheticamp and most of the residents there today can trace their roots back to these families. Cheticamp is now the Acadian centre of the Maritimes.

Nova Scotia (New Scotland).. Wonder why??

Blue Whale Vertebra

We thought we would get good seafood at the Seafood stop...looking forward to more lobster. But disaster, Miracle whip in the potato salad, poor service and 20 minutes to get a drink!!! no staff tips here. Off to dip our feet in the bay at La Point on Cheticamp island and then a delicious ice cream en route back to the condo.

Another wonder day with fine weather in cape Breton.

Some Whales have 'baleen', others real teeth

La Point beach ... Cheticamp!

Cape Breton sure is beautiful