Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail

 

Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail

Our Trusty Map

One of the major reasons we ventured out here was to drive around the Cabot Trail, so we decided that it would be best to take at least 2 days to do it and t stay in a B and B half way round in a village called Pleasant Bay. So we packed a few overnight necessities and left the 'condo' safely parked at the campground.

Tuesday July 22nd

Endless beautiful coastline

Beach near Ingonish

Today we began our journey along the Cabot Trail. We started out through Baddeck  and after getting the “lo down: from the tourist office set off maps and brochures in hand. We traveled up the east coast to Ingonish. We checked out the beach at Ingonish. Then we strayed off the trail according to guide instructions and went on the Middlehead Trail hike. It was a short  4km loop. The trail is all up and down over tree roots and rocks, and follows a long, narrow peninsula separating two ocean bays, ending on headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island.  On just a little further to view a large rocky outcrop where gulls were nesting, squawking and trying to teach their young how to fly. It was fascinating.

Beautiful beaches at Ingonish

Back on the Cabot a little further north we went off on to a dirt sideroad of some 6km to visit Mary Ann Falls. A local swimming hole formed by the pooling of some “rapids” rather than “falls” still very picturesque.

Ingonish Island in Background

Time for a snack at the top

Starting our hike on Middlehead Trail

View on the way up Middlehead

Middlehead point with Smokey Mtn In background

 Feeling good!!

Baby Seagull.. in practice mode

More flyers in training

I'm flappin' I'm flappin', but no flyin yet!!

The weary parent "yeah.. keep flappin' son"

Mary Ann Falls... beautiful spot for a swim1

NEIL'S HARBOUR

At this point we decided we better get a move on and get around to Pleasant Bay where we had booked at the Highland Breeze B and B. Got there to find a deserted house, open with our name on a sheet in the window. Room was downstairs and actually a bit better than we had expected. Mind you the pump toilet system could have used a silencer!

Beer before dinner - Rusty Anchor Restaurant

Dinner... get cracking!!! FRESH!!

We went into “town” and found the Rusty Anchor restaurant that we had seen advertised. Fabulous. 

Fishermans platter.. veggies and pots to come!

We had the Fishermans platter and a Lobster Crab dinner.

THE BEST ... Lobster and crab... !!! Rusty Anchor

Great food. On the way back the sun was setting so we detoured to the beach. We joined a family who had started a beach fire and shared the sunset with them Peter, Janet Zach and Alec welcomed us and we shared some stories of cycling, traveling and we learned a little French. Coincidentally they were staying at the other guest house run by Highland Breeze. It was a gorgeous sunset with great company.

Young Zach.. and smors!!

Sunset at Pleasant Bay Beach

Sun starting to fade.. fire lit

INCREDIBLE!!!! ---- Untouched!!

Wednesday July 23rd

Poolside ... Highland Breeze B and B - Ho hum!!

Leisurely start to the day with a whole group breakfast. Today we are heading southbound as the The Cabot trail circles around on the east side climbing up Mackenzie mountain with spectacular coastal views.

Rusty Anchor from MacKenzie Mtn.

As we headed south Derek (the eagle eyed one!) spotted a moose grazing at the side of the road... he sure was a huge one. We were both pretty happy about seeing one.

MOOSE!!! .... Check!!!

Then we paused at the The Skyline Trail for another 9km hike. This one is more level going out to a point that is windy and exposed. the last few hundred yards is along a stepped boardwalk to viewing platforms. Photogenic or what? But the photos really don't do it justice... just phenomenal.

Yikes -- feed him quick!!!

Keep on going - almost there!

Loved the Skyline trail

Photos do not do this justice-top of skyline trail

A bit nervous at the top

Wild roses in meadow

Skyline trail on Left ridge, Road on right

We continued on to Cheticamp. Just as we were descending in to the town, we stopped at a viewpoint, and a ranger was there with some whale bones. She gave us a quick run down on the whale species to be found here (most of them it seems!!)

In Cheticamp we stopped at a small info centre and cultural museum. A history lesson indeed. Who knew about La Grande Derangement?? In 1755 the British at war in the new world against the French determined to expel over 10,000 Acadians to other parts of the Americas and back to France. Those that escaped or later returned after 1780 settled in Quebec and Nova Scotia to re-establish their culture, 14 families settled in Cheticamp and most of the residents there today can trace their roots back to these families. Cheticamp is now the Acadian centre of the Maritimes.

Nova Scotia (New Scotland).. Wonder why??

Blue Whale Vertebra

We thought we would get good seafood at the Seafood stop...looking forward to more lobster. But disaster, Miracle whip in the potato salad, poor service and 20 minutes to get a drink!!! no staff tips here. Off to dip our feet in the bay at La Point on Cheticamp island and then a delicious ice cream en route back to the condo.

Another wonder day with fine weather in cape Breton.

Some Whales have 'baleen', others real teeth

La Point beach ... Cheticamp!

Cape Breton sure is beautiful

July 21 - Halifax to Cape Breton

July 21 - Halifax to Cape Breton

Over the causeway to Cape Breton

YEY... almost there!!

Parked in Bras D'ors Campground

We left Halifax excited to start our new adventure in Cape Breton and the Cabot trail. Derek was still felling a little rough with sore throat and sniffles but we shared the driving and Janice took over for the last big stretch. We arrived late afternoon and the Bras D'or Lakes Campground and settled in to our site. The campground is on the shore of Bras D'or lake (a mix of fresh and salt water) and after we settled we walked down to the lake and watched some people head off in Kayaks and then chatted to a French Canadian couple who were having some wine and cheese on the beach. 
This appears to be a great campground, but one of the most expensive we have stayed in. We BBQ'd some chicken and organized a little in preparation for our trip tomorrow around the Cabot trail.. 

Down by the lake

Happy and excited about Cabot Trail

Jelly Fish.. not sure if they are dangerous.. no swimming

Sun Jul 20th - Halifax Waterfront

Sun Jul 20th - Halifax Waterfront

Great day today. We headed into town and parked the truck for the day by the waterfront boardwalk. It is such a vibrant boardwalk on such a sunny warm day. Lots of street musicians (of varied talent!)

Self Explanatory - Some history of Cunard Lines

We sauntered the length of the boardwalk in both directions. We were passing the ferry terminal going to Dartmouth and decided to go for the ride. $4.25 return for the two of us was the cheapest harbour tour on record!! We just puttered there and back on the same ferry, sitting in the sun watching the shoreline and the vessels in the harbour area. Getting a bit hungry we shared an order of fish n' chips from a kiosk on the waterfront... excellent and fill a hole. On one end of the waterfront boardwalk we found a brewery, (the Garrison Brewing company) ) so we went in and ordered a couple of cold beer samplers each, sitting in the sun to enjoy them. 

Maritime Museum. Pirate!

Not far from the brewery we found a statue of Samuel Cunard .. the founder of the huge Cunard shipping empire. We were very surprised to find out that he was a native of Halifax, Nova Scotia... who knew?? Reading the history of him and the Cunard line was enlightening to say the least.
We saw other interesting statues and landmarks as we continued our exploration. 

Cute way to use an old tugboat.. tours

As suppertime approached we re-parked the truck in the downtown area so we could go to one of our favourite pubs (from other trips) where they have good food and live music. The Old Triangle did not disappoint. We decide to graze on appies such as the Lobster Dip (incredible stuff),  mussels and Irish nachos (made from thin slices of potatoes---yummy). A fun end to a great stay in Halifax. It is one of our favourite Canadian cities. Well worth the visit if you have never been there before. 

Cheapest Harbour tour - the Ferry!

Something old, something new,

George Island- used to imprison French/Acadians

Golf green... in the harbour.. 3 balls for $10... No thx!

Hot day, Cold beer, Priceless!

Great spot for a cold one.

Harbour walk.. great way to enjoy Halifax

Old Triangle Pub... worth visiting. Great music!

Thur-Sat July 17-19 - Halifax & Peggy's Cove

Thursday  July 17th

Camped Near Halifax NS. Woodhaven RV Park

Managed to pack up the condo and get on the road before more rain hit. We are set for a relatively short driving day to Halifax. All was well and the spare tire is performing as it should. Got to the Woodhaven Campground and RV park at about 3pm and set up in the pouring rain. Needed a few groceries so Derek got them while Janice tried to fight the last battle with her cold which she is winning. Brought in supper and we watched a few episodes of “The House of Cards”. What a great series. 

Friday July 18th

Had an at home day, cleaned some of the road grime off the rig, and got some research done for Cape Breton. The microwave wasn't working properly and Derek fixed it (fan blades had slipped off). Late afternoon an old friend from Mr Lube days (Gary K) came over.  It was really good to see him again and catch up. After a quick trip to his house where we enjoyed a beer on his dock, we picked up his wife Lauren and went for a great dinner at the Bicycle Thief in Halifax before going on to see their daughter Brynn performing in The Taming of The Shrew at Shakespeare by the Sea. A wonderfully entertaining evening of live theatre outside in the park with good friends. The play was excellent... great professional performance. We would recommend anyone who comes to Halifax in the summer to come to see some performances here... well worth the visit.  Sorry.. once again no photos... very forgetful. One of the great parts of this traveling lifestyle is to catch up with friends across the country (and round the world). Most are just fleeting visits, but each one is indeed precious and memorable. We are so very lucky.

Saturday July19

Coffee break stop along the way

Peggy's Cove from Swiss 111 Memorial

Swiss 111 Memorial

Fisherman's monument by DeGarthe

Beautiful weather so we packed a picnic and took off to Peggy’s Cove. En route we enjoyed seeing fishing village and some very picturesque bays, stopping at one to gaze at the view and drink some coffee.  We paused at the memorial to Swissair 111, that came down into the ocean just 5 miles off the coast from Peggy’s Cove in Sept 1998 with the loss of 229 lives. Very sad.

Peggy's Cove. So rich in heritage

Whale jaw in the buoy shop

In Peggy's cove we joined a walking tour of the village and learned much about the local history, including a quick tour of the house (now museum of William E DeGarthe. He was born in Helsinki, Finland but settled permanently in the beautiful village of Peggy’s Cove in 1955. He was a painter and sculptor. His “Fisherman’s Monument” was sculpted out of a 100 foot granite face of rock below his home. It depicts people who were living in the village at the time (our guide's father and uncle are shown in it.) The monument is now also his gravestone as he was buried in his garden. His art works are quite breathtaking. 
Out by the lighthouse we tried for ages to get that perfect picture of the waves crashing over the rocks and got a few good ones. Peggy’s Cove....What a picturesque icon of Nova Scotia.

We sat out on our folding chairs on the rocks to picnic in the sunshine with views of the ocean, rocks and lighthouse, followed by a quick walk into the village for the very best homemade ice cream EVER!!!

Lobster Traps outside a fishing hut

Colourful and relatively unspoiled

Back at he condo we quickly prepared for John and Sue M, who picked us up and we had a great time catching up at Montana's. Actually only called John that morning so we were thrilled to be able to get together on short notice. John and I realized that we have known each other for quite a 'few' years, all the way back to Mother's restaurants in the early 80's. After a wonderful dinner, Sue and John dropped us off and had to take off to pick up their daughter, so Derek and I sat outside with a beer by a fire.

Looking down on the cove from a hill

Great folks here in Halifax and, when the weather is this good, it is just a fabulous place. It is truly a beautiful city on the Atlantic coast... so much to see and do. We must come out here for a longer visit in the future. Love it!!  Woodhaven Campground is advertised as the closest to Halifax and we have found it to be a great place to base ourselves during our stay. The sites are a little small, but the one we are in is set in the trees, sheltered and private. The internet is a little erratic and unreliable. Te washrooms and showers are basic but serviceable, and the pool looks great.

What a great day.

The village- from the lighthouse area

Picnic time.... aaaaahh!!

Ice cream... with a view