Sat May 17th 2014 - Lome, Togo

 Sat May 17th 2014 - Lome, Togo

Togo - Between Benin and Ghana

First sight of Lome

Greetings to Togo

Market Chaos

Today, we had booked an afternoon excursion, so in the morning we hopped on the shuttle from the ship to the "grand marche' - supermarket in the town of Lome. the port is a container port, so the views from the ship are not too attractive... but it is very interesting to drive through a busy African container port. it is very big, bustling, and somewhat chaotic, weaving around the containers, quite an experience. When we got off the bus we decided to walk through the market area, which seems to cover the whole town ... if I could think of creating a West African town centre on a movie set, and got it perfectly right, no one would believe it that it was authentic.  It really is everything you could imagine in your dreams, dusty, exotic, people yelling and trying to sell you anything and everything, goats and chickens wandering around, women carrying unbelievable loads on their heads (why is it always the women?), we saw one woman with a minimum of 6 full size suitcases on her head... another with a box of live chickens, another with clothes on hangers on three sides hanging from a framed mound of bales of cloth... they carry water, bread, corn, clothes, household supplies, shoes, you name it- they carry it!! All this, while small motorcycles created terror and havoc as they dodged in and around the crowds. While I thought the sales pressure was heavy in Beijing, it was mild compared to the markets in West Africa... After running the gamut through town we hopped into the local supermarket and picked up a few supplies for our cabin and took the shuttle back to the ship, heavy traffic both inside and outside the port area... it is incredible how the small motorcycles buzz around in packs weaving in and out on dirt roads, over curbs, across oncoming lanes... no helmets. I saw a family of five on one little motorcycle.. kid up front, then dad, then another kid squashed between dad and mom, who was carrying a baby on her back in a cloth pouch. Yikes, ... and I thought I was recklessly brave driving my 805cc on open tarmac roads in Canada with a helmet and protective padding in my leathers. 

Voodoo ceremony

After a quick snack we headed out for our afternoon tour which was a trip to a village called Sanguera.

Derek with local kids

Voodoo Priestess - Note scars

Village Kids

It is a fairly large traditional style village and we were welcomed by the priest, who performed a welcoming ceremony, blessing us and pouring water and palm wine onto the dirt to indicate that we could now enter. They follow voodoo tradition and we were treated to drumming in the main village communal area where they danced and went into 'trances' etc. We noticed that many of them had large scars on their bodies and smaller, more defined scars on their cheeks from cutting themselves as part of their traditions. It was here that we saw our first Calabash (Crescentia) tree. The 'fruit' of this tree is not edible but are cut in half, dried and used as bowls we know as Calabashes. The pulp is used for respiratory conditions. After a short wander, and a cold drink we headed to the 'Village Artisanal' which is a small artists community, highlighting Togolese weaving, clothmaking, statue making, macrame etc. It was quite interesting, but we were determined not to buy more 'stuff' having off-loaded so much stuff we had gathered in the first 40 years of our marriage. We did enjoy watching them at work and a washroom break was an experience in and of itself... hygiene and sanitation are not high on the priority in Togo... I will not elaborate!!! 

Back to the ship, dinner and dancing (finally some rock music) on the pool deck.

High Priest

Mom Dancing - Baby asleep

So Beautiful

Janice one again joining in

Village view

Guess what this is???

Calabash tree with fruit... who knew?

Leaving Togo

Fri May 16 2014. - Cotonou, Benin

Friday May 16th Cotonou, Benin - AMAZING

Breathtaking sunrise

And again.. a little later

Welcome to Benin

Room service breakfast arrived too early at 6.15, but that enabled us to watch a beautiful sunrise. Unfortunately the port wasn't ready for us and our trip start time was delayed for over an hour. We drove off the quay in a conga line of four coaches preceded by armed police with sirens blaring! Much of the city traffic was stopped as our entourage sped through. A rather exciting start to our day.

First Gas station of many ... yes it really is!!!

Traffic stopped for us... so many little Bikes

Driving along

Not sure which side of the road they drive!!

First impressions---  so many people, so many little motorbikes, many of the 125 cc Chinese made Sanyo's. Literally through the day we guess we saw many tens of thousands of them. There could be 50-100 stopped at any red light. The main road had some asphalt but quickly gave way to red sandy road base, with huge pot holes. The side of the road has a kind of 'service road' running along side with stalls abutting right on to the slip road or the main road. Now we can describe them as stalls but think more of market stalls with tin roofs supported by thin tree branches and their wares laid out front on orange boxes. Anything from TV's to vegetables, to furniture, crockery and all kinds of plastic chairs table, pots and pans hairdressers restaurants and fast food cooked on a gas stove right on the sidewalk---- and 'gas stations' ......... In Cotonou one buys gas from a seller on the side of the road who has pop bottles, carboys and gas cans. Fishermen from Benin take their fish into neighbouring Nigeria, and while there they pick up as much cheap gas (petrol) as they can carry in any container they can find including water bottles, bringing it back to Benin where they,  or a family member sells it on the side of the road. We did not see a regular gas station anywhere. 

Barreling thru in convoy! - with Sirens

The noise, people yelling, honking of horns, the hubbub, the number of people, the excitement in the air, created an unforgettable experience.

On we went visiting the Portuguese fort, reconstructed from the 1700's including some original slave trade artifacts, neck braces and chains. 

At the Portugese Fort

Wish I had bought this wall hanging

Historic Quidah

Uhhh! -  Haute Couture!!???

Then to the village of Quidah   the centre of voodooism, and the Python Temple which is just across from the Catholic cathedral!! Janice bravely handled a live python!! The pythons (which are sacred) the are released into the village at night and they wander (or slither) freely through the village streets. In the morning the residents get their brooms out and shoo them back to the temple. UGGHH!! After the Python Temple we paid a visit to the Sacred forest where we were welcomed by the high priest (Voodoo) who welcomed us to the forest. It contained many statues all of which had some story behind them in the Voodoo religion. It was very interesting and quite an experience to be in an area where Voodoo is the predominant religion.. they are very serious about it.

Temple of the Pythons

And here is a small handful! - many more inside

The Grimace says it all

Happily safer by the python statue

UGH!

Young boy on a stroll around the village

African Rainbow Lizard on roof - Peek-a-boo!

Yams anyone?

Improvising a kite - plastic bag!

What a smile - school uniform!

Just a great picture!

Our friendly guard

Note the belly button!

High priest and entourage coming to welcome us

High Priest and Priestess

Joyous Voodoo dancing

I refuse to caption this photo!!!!

Sacred Forest

Ancient ruins in the Sacred forest

We are a spectacle to them

 

Sad poverty levels in Benin

The point of no return

Part of our lunch experience

Beninoise Beer

Point of no return from lunch spot

After leaving the Sacred Forest we stopped at the slave walk (Point Of No Return). A four km walk from the town to the beach (we went by bus) where there is a UNESCO memorial. Varying reports suggest that at least 10 million slaves over 400 years were exported from just this part of Africa. We have seen records of 4 million in Texas.  Estimates of the total numbers of 'lost Africans' is anything up to 100 Million. So sadly interesting to be on the sending beaches after we have been at the receiving docks and auction warehouses in Charleston. After this rather emotional stop we had a communal seafood lunch at a restaurant on the beach, with a much appreciated cold beer.

 3 of the 4  armed escort

National Police ???

After lunch we headed to Ganvie. This is a town of 30,000 (though our flat bottom boat operator told us 100,000) people who live on canals in houses and shops raised on stilts above the salt water harbour lake, some 8 km from the harbour.  Incredible to see houses, stores and restaurants in this environment. Many of the people would hide their faces or put plastic tubs over their heads as they do not want to be photographed... Apparently they believe we may be stealing part of their soul! I guess we are when you really think about it. The origins of the community go back to the slave trade days where there were reported to be demons in the water where  sailors would not go. This is how the local King saved his people, by building the town on stilts. Ganvie has it's own school, hospital, hotel.... All on stilts. Of course all the residents have flat bottom boats, similar to canoes to get around town and into the main harbour. Some sell vegetables or other supplies from their boats. Fish form a large part of their diet and the town is surrounded by 'fields', protected by fine netting and surrounded by a fence of Palm leaves... We saw them building one as we drifted by.

Filling his tank ... from a champagne bottle!!!

 

On their way to Ganvie

See swimmer on right fixing enclosures

Dock area on mainland

Residents of Ganvie

Dusk in the village

Heading home

Seems so basic and poor

Bringing in Palm leaves to make fishing enclosures

Colourful 'sails'

Illegal fishing!!!

Back at mainland dock

Mainland dock area

Bread anyone?

We were late getting back so once again we literally barged back to the ship through town ... Police escort with sirens and our lights flashing and much horn blowing.  Four big buses making quite a stir in town... We noticed actual fear on some of the old folks as we whizzed by and felt a little guilty ... An hour later on board! Quick shower and change after a day in humid 32 degrees, felt good to be spoiled for choice at dinner, but also hard to get over the poverty we have just seen, into perspective.

Meanwhile back on the ship - guilty decadence