Friday, October 24, 2014

Fri Oct 24th - Memphis to Clarksdale, Mississippi - The Crossroads

The visitors centre is an old Rlwy Stn

Fri Oct 24 -  Clarksdale, Mississippi - The Crossroads
The start of The Blues
Here we are!


Our Site at The Expo Grounds. Great
We had a leisurely start to the pack up in Memphis and drove the 2 hours to Clarksdale, arriving around mid day. We had some fun trying to find the non existent Chamber of Commerce location, only to find out by phone that they no longer handle the RV sites at the Expo Centre. Anyway we drove in turning west at “The Crossroads” Hwy 61 and 49 and, for the uninitiated, look up Robert Johnson! He sold his soul to the devil at the Crossroads.
We got to the Expo grounds and found full hook ups, got an envelope off the rack, enclosed the $20 and dropped it into the lock box - brilliant system and the cheapest full service hook up of the last two years.



The crossroads where Johnson 'sold his soul' is widely understood to be located at the junction of Hwy 61 and Hwy 49.
Robert Johnson was here!!!! We think!!!!


Robert Johnson might have been here
A great find in Rosedale at the Crossroads (2)
Now there is a discrepancy about where the actual crossroads is. A latest concept is that it is at the junction of Hwy 1 and 8 in Rosedale some 39 miles away. After all Rosedale not Clarksville is mentioned in the lyrics. Off we went to Rosedale. To be fair, Derek doesn’t want to miss any chance that he can improve his guitar playing. So we got the bases covered!!!  At the junction is Leo’s at the Levee, a dubious café but a rare gem, just wrapping up their small buffet…wow awesome catfish, fall of the bones ribs, caramelized beans and great peach cobbler. On a sharezees plate…$10.00 for lunch for us both. Fabulous.

Good eats at Leo's


The Folks in Rosedale are convinced



Cotton fields
We drove back into Clarksville, checked out some of the stores, Morgan Freeman’s Ground Zero club,  and various blues trail markers (Bessie Smith, Ike Turner, WROX radio etc.) then went a couple of miles out of town to the site where Muddy Waters house use to be on the Stovall Plantation. It was here right in the cotton fields framed with Pecan trees that Mckinley Morganfield grew up. Our imaginations were let loose as we stood on such hallowed ground. And we picked a bag full of pecans from trees that have probably been around since McKinley (Muddy Waters) was there many many years ago! We tried one and have never ever tasted such fresh soft tasty pecans… ever!!! 


Cotton fields
Roadside cotton. Looks like snow

Bales of Cotton
Swamp at the side of the road
Ike got his start in Clarksdale
Ground Zero Blues club - Clarksdale

Not pretty but big history
Ground Zero stage

Plaque at Muddy's shack location

Site of Muddy's home

Cotton fields behind Muddy's shack
......Fish are jumpin and the cotton is high..............


Fresh picked Pecan

Sharecropper's house next door to Muddy's shack
Pecans ..... YUMMMM!!!
Remains of Muddy's shack before move
An amazing feeling of connection
Roadside cotton!

We arrived at Red's Lounge early
Lucius Spiller rocked the place!!
Back to the condo, then we got a cab into Reds Lounge touted as the only remaining authentic 'juke joint'. Well it was certainly down and dirty, bottled beers out of a couple of much used coolers. Luscious Spiller, a youngish  bluesy / rocker from Little Rock, Arkansas was on. His first set began at 9.00 and was over two hours non- stop, backed by a local drummer and bass player. By 12.30 after only a 10 minute break he was still coming out with new stuff, lots of old blues standby’s with rock and his own stuff thrown in. Wow.  Called our taxi driver and got him out of bed to come and take us home…. And he was still cheerful! Mind you he was well paid for his trouble.  What a great night.



Derek.. at the Crossroads

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Wed-Thur Oct 22-23 – Memphis, Tennessee


Wed-Thur Oct 22-23 – Memphis, Tennessee

Wed Oct 22 – Nashville to Memphis

Left Nashville feeling very lucky to have been back there.  Before we left a neighbor in the park who had just arrived from Canada told us there had been a shooting on Parliament Hill.  We were shocked but didn’t hear any details until we were driving toward Memphis. We couldn’t get anything but music on the Canadian radio stations on Sirius, but were finally successful in hearing the updated news and details as they happened on CNN radio.  I think we both felt so bereft…. Stripped of something we couldn’t really identify… maybe it could be that the ‘peace’ we know to be Canada had been shattered in this one senseless shooting. Tears though very real, seemed so inadequate. Weeping for the young man who has lost his life, and for our country Canada, which has somehow lost something of its innocence! Our thoughts today are with those at home facing this awful reality. 

The traffic coming in to Memphis was awful and it took us until early evening to get to our destination.

We arrived at Memphis Jellystone RV Resort just over the state line in Mississippi (we also came here 2 years ago on our way to Texas).  Setting up quickly we sat outside in the sun chatting about the day and its events.

Thinking of you Canada!!!


Thur 23rd Oct – Memphis

Sun Studios
WHBQ studio moved here. Played Elvis first song
The original  Sun recording studio
Original mikes and drums
The famous picture on the wall.
We set aside the day to explore Memphis as we had not done so 2 years ago. We drove into the city and started our day at the Sun Recording Studio, where we learned so much interesting information about the history of this amazing place… the story of Sam Phillips and his assistant Marion Keisker who basically ran the whole thing from the beginning. Marion was the first person ever to record Elvis and when Sam heard the recording he rejected him. A year later when they were searching for someone to fill in, his name came up and he was invited to audition. Still not impressed until a break in the session and Elvis started clowning around with a song called ‘That’s alright Mama’… Sam Phillips recorded it as they were messing around and took the recording to DJ Dewey Phillips at his studio ... and he is credited with playing the first Elvis song on the radio on his show "Red Hot and Blues" at the WHBQ studio downtown Memphis.... and the rest as they say……..

Jerry Lee to stubbed his cig out on the piano- DUH!
Love Me Tender
The history of Sun Studio is fascinating and they have left everything original in there… The Studio was going to be demolished and instead it was dismantled and taken to Sun Studios for display in the museum. 
During the tour Janice even got to hold the SAME microphone as Elvis. It is WELL worth the visit … this small unassuming location is just busting with history and fascinating stories.  The first ever identified ‘rock n roll’ record  was recorded here in Mar 1951 (Rocket 88) the sound that epitomizes rock and roll (distorted guitar) came by accident from a broken speaker stuffed with crumpled newspaper. Ike Turner was on piano… who knew??? This studio is a must do for anyone visiting Memphis. The famous photo of Jerry Lee, Elvis, Johnny Cash and Carl Perkins is on the wall having been cut to remove Elvis's girlfriend who was sitting on the piano in the original version.

After leaving Sun we went on to Beale street and had a very southerm style shared lunch at BB Kings Blues club  (Gumbo, fried green tomatoes and fried crawfish poppers with remoulade sauce)… all great.

We walked up and down the famous Beale Street and then went down to the Missiissippi River for a photo before heading to Stax records location. The original building has been hugely renovated and  houses the Stax Museum of Soul Music. The Stax Music Academy was built next to it. We did the tour and though it is very interesting, we both felt the Sun Studio was more interesting and authentic. Seeing the artifacts and reading the stories of such Stax artists as Otis Reading, Rufus Thomas, Isaac Hayes, Ike Turner and Tina Turner etc etc  and footage of old performances was quite cool. I must say though… it felt weird seeing your fond memories of your youth being old enough to display in a MUSEUM!!!!! Honestly!!!!! So these two ancient artifacts jumped into our truck and headed back to camp, driving passed Graceland on the way.  Having absorbed three decades of rock and soul we settled down after supper to get the blog updated and catch up with emails etc.

So Memphis …… CHECK!!!!

On to our next destination tomorrow… Clarksdale … home of The Crossroads (look up the history of Robert Johnson) …. This is the birth of it all… Mississippi Delta Blues country.  Stay tuned!
View of Memphis from banks of the Mississippi













Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Tue Oct 21 - Lynchburg

Tue Oct 21 - Lynchburg
Jack Himself All 5ft 2in of him!!
Their own charcoal for filtering
Proof we were here!!
Jack Daniels Distillery- Lynchburg, Tenn
A trip to Lynchburg, Tennessee for a tour of the Jack Daniels Distillery. We were surprised to discover that all Jack D sold around the work is produced in this one location. We managed a quick walk around town as well as the distillery tour. The distillery is located in Moore County which is a ‘dry’ county... go figure!!!! But it was a fascinating experience to see how ‘hands on’ the production still is right down to coopering and toasting their own barrels and making their own charcoal. Apart from the fact that they are caving in to the modern trend for flavoured alcohol (Cinnamon flavour and honey flavour), they still make the distilling of their Old NO 7 an art form.

Heading in to the Grand Ole Opry





We drove back to Nashville directly to the (Modern) Grand Ole Opry in Music Valley as we had tickets for the live-aired Grand Ole Opry Show. There were 3-4 okay performers, but then a 12 member group of musicians called The Willis Family (they are all sisters and brothers) playing mostly Irish based celtic music. They were phenomenal!!!  Keith Urban topped off the evening’s show with a great performance … sheesh that’s one good looking country music star… Janice is ready to buy boots and a lasso.  Another great day in Nashville. Tennessee… time to roll on to our next destination… Memphis!!!


Happy to be here




Anticipation inside the Opry
Keith Urban - Great performance