Thursday, May 22, 2014

Thursday May 22nd, 2014 Dakar, Senegal

Thursday May 22nd, 2014 Dakar, Senegal
Derek and Pappy on the Ferry to Isle De Goree
Street on Isle De Goree
Note the Calabash... ha! we've see the trees!!
Church on Island.. visited by Pope Jean-Paul
After the three sea days we were just about ready for a port day. We had decided that the Princess tour packages are way overpriced and therefore determined to do Dakar "on our own". We walked to  the nearby ferry and were joined by another couple, shortly after, "Pappy" a local and licensed tour guide latched on to us and we all got the ferry to Isle de Goree. This is a small island, 20 minutes ride from the harbour and was the staging post / prison for the slaves before boarding the ships for America. Originally developed by the Portugese, the island was a throw back in time. Apparently 1,500 people live on the island today and it has the preeminent boarding school for Senegal high school girls. In many respects although relatively civilized it is still very primitive, with outstanding architecture. and the horrific House of Slaves where we stood in the doorway that led to the boarding ramps to the boats...the point of no return.
Inside island church
Unusual Shell font
Poignant statue
Slave room.. holds 20 male slaves
Door through which slaves loaded
Door from water *on righthand side"
Back in harbour, the other couple bowed out, but we got Pappy to take us to Lac Rose. A saline lake from which they harvest salt which is exported to Mali. There we got a camel ride and rode from the lake over to the Atlantic Ocean, now they said it wouldn't be bumpy...they lied, but it did create a memorable experience. Getting on and off were quite spectacular events. Then we went over to a restaurant for lunch, sitting by a pool with a Gazelle beer. Had the best chips in years and a wonderful filet of a fish called thiof. (discovered later that it is an endangered species - sorry!) We then raced back in the taxi arriving at 4.30 and walked right into the folkloric drum and dancing show at the ships theatre. It was an  incredible act, our ears were still throbbing an hour later. What an outstanding day of such different experiences and emotion. A great "do it on our own" day and it cost less than the cost of just a morning Princess tour.

Cruel artifacts of slavery


Sand artist

Natural sand used in art
 
This will become a beautiful piece of art

Stand it up and shake! and VOILA
On Ferry back

Isle De Goree Beach

Enroute to Pink Lake
En route .. cattle

On Beach at Pink Lake
Salt harvesters

Remains of salt in boat
Camel rider... FUN!!
HOP ON THEN!!!!
Follow to leader
The Atlantic Ocean

Yes .... we did it!!
Getting off.... Yikes that's difficult!!!









Thiof (choff!) and chips!!

Unusual pool chairs
Meanwhile back on the ship!!
Leaving Dakar, Senegal

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

May 19-21 3 Sea days

 May 19-21 3 Sea days
Three sea days to just veg and relax. Got in some walking and gym, lots of reading, some laundry, watched the movie Captain Philips and actually did get lots of relaxation. Had Chris, Tracey and Lucy from Tasmania join us at the dinner table as we had met up and had a lot of laughs. They built a shed and live in their RV inside it. Long story. Entertainment one evening was a fantastic pianist from Manchester. Seas were relatively calm and air temperatures around 30, all very nice.
A few beautiful sunset shots, all taken from our balcony:






Champagne party - Lucie loving it!!

And we are loving it too... much!!!


Sunday, May 18, 2014

Sunday May 18th 2014 - Accra, Ghana

Sunday May 18th 2014 - Accra, Ghana
Statue at Mausoleum of Nkrumah
African stringed instrument maker
Early start for a full day tour to Accra. We docked at Tema, another container port. Started the tour and began the trip through Tema which was built more recently as the main port. still full of the roadside stalls and typical of the west African environment. We arrived through the financial centre of Accra passing the stock exchange, the presidential offices and some government offices. This caused us to wonder if this would have been the area where Derek would have been working and we would have lived, except for that coup-d'etat that changed our lives back in 1972.
Artisan stall
Large disparity of wealth here
First stop was the memorial and mausoleum of Dr Kwame Nkrumah. Revered leader of the first sub-saharan  nation to achieve independence. A fitting memorial with much historic and informative material. We were then dropped off at the Novotel, this was the Accra on your own tour to allow us free time to explore. But....it was Sunday so only a fraction of the local market was open, and that was a 2km walk in 32 degree, humid weather!!! Novatel was in a nondescript area with nothing interesting close by to explore. Not good planning by Princess cruises and many passengers were fuming. One poor guy spent 3 1/2 hours in the lobby of the hotel leaning on his cane. We did have some fun negotiating in the market and bought a couple of bits, before tromping back to Novotel to try a couple of local beer. they tasted like nectar after our foray into the humidity. 
Yes folks... a coffin
The coach returned and picked us up, drove passed a couple of sites..soccer stadium etc then off to a highly touted coffin maker specializing in distinctive coffin designs...submarines, movie camera, boat-shapes  etc. We expected deep quality not banged together driftwood!! not a desirable stop. Mitigating all this was the tour guide Yaw who was very knowledgeable and informative and a really nice guy. All in all not a great tour.  We did reflect much about what life would have been for us 42 years ago living here. We would probably have returned to UK after the contract and never made it to Canada. Methinks it all worked out for the best! Go Canada!!! Much of the bus was disgruntled on the trip home. We decided that we would cancel future bus tours except going to Rabat in Morocco and we will venture out on our own at all future ports... bound to have adventures!!! We met up with a couple and their daughter in the bar after dinner and had a great conversation and many laughs. This is one of the great things about cruising... meeting such great folks along the way.
Coffin
Movie camera coffin
Weird upright coffin
The dreaded tour bus
 




Leaving Tema, Ghana


Sunset as we leave


Saturday, May 17, 2014

Sat May 17th 2014 - Lome, Togo

 Sat May 17th 2014 - Lome, Togo
Togo - Between Benin and Ghana
First sight of Lome
Greetings to Togo
Market Chaos
Today, we had booked an afternoon excursion, so in the morning we hopped on the shuttle from the ship to the "grand marche' - supermarket in the town of Lome. the port is a container port, so the views from the ship are not too attractive... but it is very interesting to drive through a busy African container port. it is very big, bustling, and somewhat chaotic, weaving around the containers, quite an experience. When we got off the bus we decided to walk through the market area, which seems to cover the whole town ... if I could think of creating a West African town centre on a movie set, and got it perfectly right, no one would believe it that it was authentic.  It really is everything you could imagine in your dreams, dusty, exotic, people yelling and trying to sell you anything and everything, goats and chickens wandering around, women carrying unbelievable loads on their heads (why is it always the women?), we saw one woman with a minimum of 6 full size suitcases on her head... another with a box of live chickens, another with clothes on hangers on three sides hanging from a framed mound of bales of cloth... they carry water, bread, corn, clothes, household supplies, shoes, you name it- they carry it!! All this, while small motorcycles created terror and havoc as they dodged in and around the crowds. While I thought the sales pressure was heavy in Beijing, it was mild compared to the markets in West Africa... After running the gamut through town we hopped into the local supermarket and picked up a few supplies for our cabin and took the shuttle back to the ship, heavy traffic both inside and outside the port area... it is incredible how the small motorcycles buzz around in packs weaving in and out on dirt roads, over curbs, across oncoming lanes... no helmets. I saw a family of five on one little motorcycle.. kid up front, then dad, then another kid squashed between dad and mom, who was carrying a baby on her back in a cloth pouch. Yikes, ... and I thought I was recklessly brave driving my 805cc on open tarmac roads in Canada with a helmet and protective padding in my leathers. 

Voodoo ceremony
After a quick snack we headed out for our afternoon tour which was a trip to a village called Sanguera.
Derek with local kids
Voodoo Priestess - Note scars
Village Kids
It is a fairly large traditional style village and we were welcomed by the priest, who performed a welcoming ceremony, blessing us and pouring water and palm wine onto the dirt to indicate that we could now enter. They follow voodoo tradition and we were treated to drumming in the main village communal area where they danced and went into 'trances' etc. We noticed that many of them had large scars on their bodies and smaller, more defined scars on their cheeks from cutting themselves as part of their traditions. It was here that we saw our first Calabash (Crescentia) tree. The 'fruit' of this tree is not edible but are cut in half, dried and used as bowls we know as Calabashes. The pulp is used for respiratory conditions. After a short wander, and a cold drink we headed to the 'Village Artisanal' which is a small artists community, highlighting Togolese weaving, clothmaking, statue making, macrame etc. It was quite interesting, but we were determined not to buy more 'stuff' having off-loaded so much stuff we had gathered in the first 40 years of our marriage. We did enjoy watching them at work and a washroom break was an experience in and of itself... hygiene and sanitation are not high on the priority in Togo... I will not elaborate!!! 
Back to the ship, dinner and dancing (finally some rock music) on the pool deck.

High Priest

Mom Dancing - Baby asleep
So Beautiful

Janice one again joining in
Village view


Guess what this is???
Calabash tree with fruit... who knew?
Leaving Togo