Jun 22 - 23 - Cabot Trail
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Our Trusty Map |
One of the major reasons we ventured out here was to drive around the Cabot Trail,
so we decided that it would be best to take at least 2 days to do it and t stay in a B and B half way round in a village called Pleasant Bay. So we packed a few overnight necessities and left the 'condo' safely parked at the campground.
Tuesday July 22nd
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Endless beautiful coastline |
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Beach near Ingonish |
Today we began our journey along the
Cabot Trail. We started out through Baddeck and after getting the “lo
down: from the tourist office set off maps and brochures in hand.
We traveled up the east coast to Ingonish. We checked out the beach at Ingonish. Then we strayed off the
trail according to guide instructions and went on the Middlehead Trail hike.
It was a short 4km loop. The trail is all up and down over tree roots
and rocks, and follows a long, narrow peninsula separating two ocean
bays, ending on headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape
Smokey and Ingonish Island. On just a little further to view a large
rocky outcrop where gulls were nesting, squawking and trying to teach
their young how to fly. It was fascinating.
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Beautiful beaches at Ingonish |
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Back on the Cabot a
little further north we went off on to a dirt sideroad of some 6km to
visit Mary Ann Falls. A local swimming hole formed by the pooling of
some “rapids” rather than “falls” still very picturesque.
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Ingonish Island in Background |
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Time for a snack at the top |
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Starting our hike on Middlehead Trail |
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View on the way up Middlehead |
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Middlehead point with Smokey Mtn In background |
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Feeling good!! |
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Baby Seagull.. in practice mode |
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More flyers in training |
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I'm flappin' I'm flappin', but no flyin yet!! |
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The weary parent "yeah.. keep flappin' son" |
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Mary Ann Falls... beautiful spot for a swim1 |
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NEIL'S HARBOUR |
At
this point we decided we better get a move on and get around to Pleasant
Bay where we had booked at the Highland Breeze B and B. Got there to find a
deserted house, open with our name on a sheet in the window. Room was
downstairs and actually a bit better than we had expected. Mind you the
pump toilet system could have used a silencer!
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Beer before dinner - Rusty Anchor Restaurant |
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Dinner... get cracking!!! FRESH!! |
We went
into “town” and found the Rusty Anchor restaurant that we had seen
advertised. Fabulous.
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Fishermans platter.. veggies and pots to come! |
We had the Fishermans platter and a Lobster Crab
dinner.
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THE BEST ... Lobster and crab... !!! Rusty Anchor |
Great food. On the way back the sun was setting so we detoured
to the beach. We joined a family who had started a beach fire and shared
the sunset with them Peter, Janet Zach and Alec welcomed us and we
shared some stories of cycling, traveling and we learned a little
French. Coincidentally they were staying at the other guest house run by
Highland Breeze. It was a gorgeous sunset with great company.
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Young Zach.. and smors!! |
Wednesday July 23rd
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Poolside ... Highland Breeze B and B - Ho hum!! |
Leisurely
start to the day with a whole group breakfast. Today we are heading southbound as the The Cabot trail circles around on the east side climbing up Mackenzie mountain with spectacular
coastal views.
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Rusty Anchor from MacKenzie Mtn. |
As we headed south Derek (the eagle eyed one!) spotted a moose grazing at the side of the road... he sure was a huge one. We were both pretty happy about seeing one.
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MOOSE!!! .... Check!!! |
Then we paused at the The Skyline Trail for another 9km hike. This one
is more level going out to a point that is windy and exposed. the last
few hundred yards is along a stepped boardwalk to viewing platforms.
Photogenic or what? But the photos really don't do it justice... just phenomenal.
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Yikes -- feed him quick!!! |
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Keep on going - almost there! |
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Loved the Skyline trail |
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Photos do not do this justice-top of skyline trail |
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A bit nervous at the top |
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Wild roses in meadow |
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Skyline trail on Left ridge, Road on right |
We continued on to Cheticamp. Just as we were descending in to the town, we stopped at a viewpoint, and a ranger was there with some whale bones. She gave us a quick run down on the whale species to be found here (most of them it seems!!)
In Cheticamp we stopped at a small info centre and cultural museum. A history
lesson indeed. Who knew about La Grande Derangement?? In 1755 the
British at war in the new world against the French determined to expel
over 10,000 Acadians to other parts of the Americas and back to France.
Those that escaped or later returned after 1780 settled in Quebec and
Nova Scotia to re-establish their culture, 14 families settled in
Cheticamp and most of the residents there today can trace their roots
back to these families. Cheticamp is now the Acadian centre of the
Maritimes.
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Nova Scotia (New Scotland).. Wonder why?? |
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Blue Whale Vertebra |
We thought we would get good seafood at the Seafood
stop...looking forward to more lobster. But disaster, Miracle whip in
the potato salad, poor service and 20 minutes to get a drink!!! no
staff tips here. Off to dip our feet in the bay at La Point on Cheticamp
island and then a delicious ice cream en route back to the condo.
Another wonder day with fine weather in cape Breton.
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Some Whales have 'baleen', others real teeth |
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La Point beach ... Cheticamp! |
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Cape Breton sure is beautiful |